Monday, June 30, 2003

after 7 days on we finally get a rest day. Right now we are the University of Utah Student center in blazing Salt Lake City, it's 100+ degrees. We ended up climbing the Yellow Spur at Eldo and it was pretty much one of my favorite climbs of all time. It's rated 10b s but 10b on the 8th pitch with only rusted pitons as gear feels a little bit harder than at Sand Rock. Anyway after leaving Boulder we headed to South Platte. Climbed a bunch of great cracks as well as some heinous offwidths. From there we drove to Rifle. Rifle is sport climbing paradise with amazing limestone routes just seconds off the road. The best routes there we thought were Feline, Easy Skankin', Rumor Has It, Eighty Feet of Meat, and Rehabilitator. I think i'm going to go back and spend some more time there one of these days. We've climbed the last three days in maple canyon. The climbing there is totally unique in that the wall is plastered with thousands of giant cobbles. You never know what kind of hold you are going to grab next so the onsight climbing is pretty hard. Onsighted quite a few elevens and after today I'll redpoint a few of my 5.12 projects. Well I'm off to get a milk shake to try and cool things down a bit but have a good one.

Friday, June 27, 2003

Monday, June 23, 2003

a humbling day at Castle Rock. After warming up on Black Crack (9+), a good lead by Mike, we decided that Country Club Crack was to great of a line to pass up. At 11c with 11b crack sections the route was HARD!!! I took some really good falls on gear and I'm definitely coming back for the redpoint. Tonight we leave for Rifle and then on to Utah. I put up some more pictures: Pictures!! It will probably be several days before we get to post again because we've got some climbin' to do. word!!

Sunday, June 22, 2003

we had an amazing day that one can normally only read about in magazines. Last night we ended up sleeping up at Fourth of July just outside Nederland (where leftover salmon is from). This morning we woke up covered in frost because we ended up just sleeping on the ground, it was about 645. We drove into eldorado canyon with our sights set on the Yellow Spur. It is an amazing looking 7 pitch 10b s on Tower One of the Red Garden Wall. Standing across the river you can see the line from miles away. The first pitch was a poorly protected 10a that was STEEP!!! The next five pitches were immaculate crack climbing that ranged from 5.8-9. Mike and I were just chilling on top of a ledge, soaking in the sun while we were waiting for some guy who was struggling with the crux and up comes this guy, no rope. He was soloing this 10b like it was just another day in the park, he's name was Rolo. It made me nervious just to be standing next to him but he was a cool guy who was an Exum guide up in the Tetons. The sixth pitch was a super exposed, steep 10b that only protected with a bunch of old pitons. AMAZING. The psychological crux of the route came on the seventh pitch with an unprotectable arete that dropped off hundreds of feet on both sides. Standing about 50 feet above my last piece of gear (a small TCU slotted in this flared crack) I felt like I might as well be soloing. maybe next time...

Friday, June 20, 2003

man it has been raining a TON!!! out here. Today we were two pitches up on the Bastille Crack at eldo and the storms rolled in. Not to worry after subway and a little searching we found the sun at clear creek. we did three routes at river wall and some more at highwire. At river wall, you have to climb this one pitch to a ledge, traverse over, lower, and then pull the rope (while keeping it out of the water) to do most of the routes there. The bonus to all of this work is that you get to climb right over the river. Steve, Scott, Rhett, all you crazy boaters would enjoy it. These guys out here are bada#*. Anyway, we onsighted all 7 routes (5.10-11) until I blew it at the top of a 12a on Highwire. The routes in clear creek are a blast and so are the hunnies. still working in that department and after a slight set back in the laundrymat I'm sure I'll be able to recover. lata

Thursday, June 19, 2003

after talking to steve last night about Clear Creek we decided to head back there today. We were looking to climb at eldo but the weather looked somewhat questionable. So we drove to Sport Wall just outside of Golden. Did a couple of 11s there and then went up to High Wire and Wall of Justice. Did an amazing multipitch 10d (sport route) that was right over the river. Wall of Justice reminded me of climbing back at Little River just because it was very steep. Did an 11c that was a blast. Clear Creek is a great place to go if you want to fire off routes (13 today). All and all another awesome day up in colorado. Tomorrow we are headed to Eldo to climb Bastille Crack, Calypso to Reggae, and Genesis. Who is John Galt?

Wednesday, June 18, 2003

were trapped in the same lightening storm twice yesterday. We climbed Climb of the Ancient Mariner (10a). I led the first and third while mike led the pretty heady second pitch. It was an amazing climb that followed this perfect crack under a roof and then it had a full pitch of runout face climbing. Right when we finished the bottom fell out and we ran back to the car. We decided to drive to Ft. Collins to go to Rotary Park. Rotary Park has some great bouldering but it started to rain again. Yeah it's still raining that's why we're just hanging out in boulder waiting to go bouldering up at Flagstaff this afternoon. have a good one.

Monday, June 16, 2003

Sunday, June 15, 2003

another day of climbing at Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon. Went back and did South Face (10a) in style. The second pitch is very poorly protected 9+ but it was a great route. After a little lunch Mike led a 9 that was pretty fun, nice and polished though. We took it pretty easy today because mike tweaked his shoulder on the Northcutt (10d) at Eldo yesterday. Eldorado, what can i say. It is pretty much climbing paradise. We did Werk Supp and that was a great introduction because it follows this awesome crack up almost a full rope length. After that I lead March of Dimes which has pretty poor protection and a decking potential from about 20'. An awesome route. The goal for the day was a pretty hard start to the Bastille Crack called the Northcutt. It says 10d in the book but it is pretty sandbagged. I took about a twenty footer on an old pin because my foot popped. A stout route for the grade. I have never seen so many people climbing as there were at eldo this weekend. This one group of two climbers took 2 and half hours to do one pitch of 5.6 (not cool). Anyway, tomorrow looks like a rest day with a little bouldering in the afternoon. lat3r.

Friday, June 13, 2003

Standin' here in the Boulder University Center after a killer day of climbing thinking about all of you back home who are trying to stay out of the heat. The climbing today was a blast especially since we took a much needed rest day yesterday. This morning we crossed the river in Boulder Canyon on a tyrolean and climbed at Cob Rock. This predominant structure has some amazing splitters so we had a good morning. After three pitches we hiked off the top and went sport climbing at the Security Risk Area but unfortunately the storms came in and we were only able to do one route. This afternoon after a big burrito we went bouldering at Flagstaff. Flagstaff is another reason to move to boulder. This amazing bouldering area is only 10 minutes from town and the problems are amazing. Tomorrow looks like Eldorado with a little bouldering mixed in during the afternoon. hope all is well on the southern front.
jody and mike

Wednesday, June 11, 2003

What's UP!!! Right now mike and I are in the CU computer lab kickin' it after five days of amazing climbing. The first day, after 20hrs of driving, we climbed the First Flatiron. We did a route we like to call Alabama Wanderers (6s) because we had no idea where the hell we were. But it was a great climb nonetheless. That night we made the mistake of staying at the Boulder International hostel (Mike slept in the kitchen and I ended up sleeping in the car because of someone's snoring). The next day we climbed the South Face (10a) at Castle Rock and did a bunch of routes at the Boulder Sport Park (the best of which was the Big Dipper (11a). The next day we climbed Cussin' Crack at Castle Rock and a sport climb in Clear Creek Canyon (11b at 7:30pm!!). The sun never seems to set here so we keep on climbing. So the next day we drove up to Lumpy Ridge and did some of the most amazing climbs I've ever been on. We did the Loose Ends (9+) and Pear Buttress (9, 5 pitch) both on the Book. The third pitch of Pear Buttress make Golden Locks look like a choss pile. Absolutely amazing. Today we climbed White Whale on Left Book and had another great day. I think tomorrow looks like a rest day because our hands are trashed. Hope everyone back home is doing well and we'll catch ya later. peace. here are the pictures PICTURES

Thursday, June 05, 2003

Just finished packing after a good run this morning and I'm headed up to Birmingham. After we take care of some business it's vamos a la Colorado. Oh yeah, Lola has been liberated and is no longer bound to the inside of the car so who knows where she will turn up.

Wednesday, June 04, 2003

Just finished running a bunch of errands before leaving tomorrow. The oil's changed, tag renewed, and I picked up some books for the road. The Island, One Hundred Years in Solitude, and Atlas Shrugged all caught my eye. To pack for a trip were you are travelling to so many different places is pretty difficult. The mountains, plains, beaches, and deserts all have their own climates and so you have to pack accordingly. So it looks like the car is going to be packed.

Tuesday, June 03, 2003

good new. Mike got the go ahead from the doctor and we are headed out to colorado after all. We plan on leaving Friday for Boulder. Looks like the bowling is going to have to wait.