bad new. Mike torn something in his knee while bouldering at Hank's and has to get cut. That puts a hold on this summers plans but I'm sure we'll both find something to do. Winslow and I went up to Fosters and T-wall the other day. The weather was perfect and we had a good time. Well I guess if I don't get to work on my climbing I can always go bowling. Bowled a 184, word.
Saturday, May 31, 2003
Tuesday, May 27, 2003
Left Friday afternoon for the Obed and ended up camping at Dell's (on the right before the bridge by the Lily Bluffs). We climbed at Y12 the next day and that place is killer. Born on the Fourth of July and Barbwire and Lingerie are definitely the area classics. After a swim in the river that afternoon we drove up to the Red. Memorial Day weekend at the Red is insane. There were tons of people and even places like Funk Rock City were packed. Funk Rock has some amazing trad cracks (beware of the anchors on some routes) and some really good sport climbs. The next day we fired off a bunch of routes at Torrent Falls before embarking on the 8hr drive home. Definitely a good weekend but now I need to rest up for the next round.
Friday, May 23, 2003
Wednesday, May 21, 2003
Friday, May 16, 2003
Mike, Jimmy, and I went up to Sand Rock today and ran a bunch of laps on Misty and Super Grover because everything else was wet. We ended up taking quite a few pictures. I'm not sure if the rock will be dry for climbing tomorrow but the best bet would probably be Sand Rock. Oh yeah and you can scratch that paper from the list below because I just finished it. 13 pages, word.
Wednesday, May 14, 2003
Monday, May 12, 2003
I recently added audio posting to add a little flava' to the site (and also to cut down on the number of phone calls this summer). I basically can call this phone number and post a two minute recording on the site from anywhere in the world (if there's a phone). Pretty cool if you ask me. Winslow and I went out to the Boulderfields today and had a great time. The bugs were suprisingly bad though. Anyway we got a pretty good workout in and I went over self rescue with Mike. It was good to see Winslow back out there and I'm psyched he is almost finished up with school so he can start back climbing again.
Sunday, May 11, 2003
Yesterday, we went climbing up at Sand Rock and had a great time in spite of the slightly wet rock. We climbed a bunch of routes including a few I had never done before. Hacienda (behind Misty) is a really great route that is nice and sharp. White Gold was killer and Urban Guerilla was fun. I'm really looking forward to finishing exams and heading up to Shortoff and then out to Colorado. At Shortoff I want to do Straight and Narrow, Dopey Duck, Maginot Line, Built to Tilt, and maybe get on Pinball Wizard.
Thursday, May 08, 2003
drenched. Lizard wall and Brandnewbia were drenched. I don't think the wall will dry out for a couple of days but lizard wall should be good for this weekend. I just finished reading something interesting: "Fear always remains. A man may destroy everything within himself, love and hate and belief, and even doubt, but as long as he clings to life, he cannot destroy fear. Perhaps in fear we seek an increased perception of life, a more potent form of existence? I am frightened, therefore I exist. The more frightened I am, the more I exist?" Sven Lindqvist (Exterminate the Brutes). interesting...
About to head up to the canyon but I thought I would put up this link to a guys site who took some pictures at Foster Falls last weekend.chiptalbert.com. Definitely some good pictures. Let's just hope the rock is dry.
Wednesday, May 07, 2003
Nothing but rain all week but hopefully lizard wall has stayed dry b/c jimmy and I are headed up there tomorrow. Lizard Wall is at the Canyon and because of a large roof and the steepness of the routes the wall generally stays dry.
Tuesday, May 06, 2003
Some one asked about climbing up at Foster Falls and what kind of rack to take up to T-Wall. The climbing at Foster Falls is amazing but there is a zero tolerance policy on the part of the Rangers there so if you take alcohol or other controlled substances just be warned that if you get busted your going to jail, period. Just camp somewhere else b/c it's definitely not worth the hassle. The routes there are spectacular especially on the White Wall, the two bunkers, the Sanford Wall, the Red Light District, and most areas in between. Definitely get on Framed, Handcuffed, Wristlets, Ethnic Cleansing, There's Something Always Wrong, and Satisfaction. As for T-Wall, I normally take double's in the micro-camalots, TCU's 0, 1, 2, doubles in the camalots to the number 2, a 3,3.5, and 4 (which I never use). Also take a set of nuts (some RPs esp. for the top of Finger Lockin' Good) and some slings. Don't forget the quickdraws or cord b/c on most climbs there are not anchors. hope that helps.
Last test of the year is over and after a couple of weeks, a few exams, and hopefully a lot of routes Mike and I are out. Yesterday, Yosemite Valley Free Climbs came in the mail and I definitely was impressed. The Supertopo crew puts a lot into those books but I think it's a mixed blessing in a sense. I don't want to become to dependant on a guide book to tell me exactly where I need to put each piece and exactly how much gear to take on a climb. Nonetheless, It is a killer book and I can't wait to get out to Yosemite. We leave for Colorado in early June and will probably end up in CA in July. Time to go run.
Monday, May 05, 2003
After looking at winslow's site for the first time in quite a while I came upon this interesting idea of blogger and I thought it would be an interesting way to communicate experiences about climbing (and life) in the southeast. Greg and I went up to Foster Falls this weekend and fired off several (9) routes. The routes there are amazing! They are definitely long and you find yourself getting extremely pumped on lls. Greg climbed strong and sent Ethnic (12b), onsighted 11d, and almost sent Darkie (12d/13a). I sent this long route named Aquital that gave me trouble during climbfest but it's only 11a (with a wink and a nod). Big plans for this summer include climbing the Diamond, at Rifle, Eldo, Boulder Canyon, the Tetons, Wild Iris, City of Rocks, around Tahoe?, Yosemite, and J-tree. But no more climbing visions for now I have to go study for a chemistry test. word.
